Joe Petrsoric, Bartender at Sardi’s, Retires After 55 Years

Earlier this year, Mr. Petrsoric, 78, was working alone around 10 p.m. when 60 or so people filed in after Broadway shows let out. He found himself going back into machine mode, a calm beacon of cocktail efficiency. Matthew Broderick happened to be sitting at the bar, watching with admiration. He expressed his amazement, which Mr. Petrsoric subtly acknowledged, with a hand placed gently to his heart. While he appreciated the accolade, he gives the same polite treatment to the star-struck as to stars like Mr. Broderick, as well as cast members, directors, producers, lyricists and composers from nearby productions.

When a younger bartender recounted to Joe the list of celebrities who flooded the Sardi’s premiere party for Wes Anderson’s latest film, “Asteroid City” — Margot Robbie, Greta Gerwig, Scarlett Johansson, Colin Jost, Uma Thurman, Ethan Hawke, Maya Hawke, Tom Hanks, Bill Murray, Adrien Brody, Bryan Cranston, Jeff Goldblum, Jason Schwartzman — Mr. Petrsoric simply shrugged.

“I’m not that crazy about celebrities,” he said. “To me, everybody is human, not gods.” Many years ago, watching Lucille Ball in the restaurant, her storied career over, taught him something about fame. “She hated to be old,” he said. “She was not happy. It’s got to be very difficult when you’re that popular. It goes to your brain, and then you see it’s not forever and you’ve got to come down to earth.”

Trying to squeeze stories from Mr. Petrsoric while he is on duty rarely bears fruit. He is as watchful as an owl, swiveling his head, his brown eyes alert to any movement, someone signaling for a check or another round. He perks up at familiar faces.